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قراءة كتاب Account of a Tour in Normandy, Volume 1

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Account of a Tour in Normandy, Volume 1

Account of a Tour in Normandy, Volume 1

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Account Of A Tour In Normandy - Volume I

Dawson Turner

LETTERS FROM NORMANDY

ADDRESSED

TO THE REV. JAMES LAYTON, B.A.

OF

CATFIELD, NORFOLK.

UNDERTAKEN CHIEFLY FOR THE PURPOSE OF INVESTIGATING THE ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES OF THE DUCHY, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON ITS HISTORY, ON THE COUNTRY, AND ON ITS INHABITANTS.
ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS.
LONDON: 1820.

PREFACE.

The observations which form the basis of the following letters, were collected during three successive tours in Normandy, in the summers of 1815, 1818, and 1819; but chiefly in the second of these years. Where I have not depended upon my own remarks, I have endeavored, as far as appeared practicable and without tedious minuteness, to quote my authorities for facts; and I believe that I have done so in most instances, except indeed where I have borrowed from the journals of the companions of my tours,—the nearest and dearest of my connections,—or from that of my friend, Mr. Cohen, who, at almost the same time, travelled through a great part of Normandy, pursuing also very similar objects of inquiry. The materials obtained from these sources, it has been impossible to separate from my own; and, interwoven as they are with the rest of the text, it is only in my power to acknowledge, in these general terms, the assistance which I have thus received.—We were proceeding in 1818, to the southern and western districts of Normandy, when a domestic calamity compelled me to return to England. The tour was consequently abridged, and many places of note remained unvisited by us.

My narrative is principally addressed to those readers who find pleasure in the investigation of architectural antiquity. Without the slightest pretensions to the character either of an architect or of an antiquarian, engaged in other avocations and employed in other studies, I am but too conscious of my inability to do justice to the subject. Yet my remarks may at least assist the future traveller, by pointing out such objects as are interesting, either on account of their antiquity or their architectural worth. This information is not to be obtained from the French, who have habitually neglected the investigation of their national monuments. I doubt, however, whether I should have ventured upon publication, if those who have always accompanied me both at home and abroad, had not produced the illustrations which constitute the principal value of my volumes. Of the merits of these illustrations I must not be allowed to speak; but it may be permitted me to observe, that the fine arts afford the only mode of exerting the talents of woman, which does not violate the spirit of the precept which the greatest historian of antiquity has ascribed to the greatest of her heroes—

"Της τε γαρ ᾽υπαρχουσης φυσεως μη χειροσι γενεσϑαι, ᾽υμιν μεγαλη ᾽η δοξα, χαι δις αν επ᾽ ελαχιστον αρετης περι η ψογου εν τοις αρσεσι χλεος η."

[English. Not in Original: "Great will be your glory in not falling short of your natural character; and greatest will be hers who is least talked of among the men whether for good or for bad." Thucydides' Historiae. (Book 2, Chapter 45, Paragraph 2, Verses 3-5.)]

DAWSON TURNER.

YARMOUTH, 13th August, 1820.


CONTENTS.

LETTER I.

Arrival at Dieppe—Situation and Appearance of the Town—Costume of the People—Inhabitants of the Suburb of Pollet.

LETTER II.

Dieppe—Castle—Churches—History of the Place—Feast of the Assumption.

LETTER III.

Cæsars Camp—Castle of Arques.

LETTER IV.

Journey from Dieppe to Rouen—Priory of Longueville—Rouen-Bridge of Boats—Costume of the Inhabitants.

LETTER V.

Journey to Havre—Pays de Caux—St. Vallery—Fécamp—The precious Blood—The Abbey—Tombs in it—Moutivilliers—Harfleur.

LETTER VI.

Havre—Trade and History of the Town—Eminent Men—Bolbec—Yvetot—Ride to Rouen—French Beggars.

LETTER VII.

On the State of Affairs in France.

LETTER VIII.

Military Antiquities—Le Vieux Château—Original Palace of the Norman Dukes—Halles of Rouen—Miracle and Privilege of St. Romain—Château du Vieux Palais—Petit Château—Fort on Mont Ste. Catherine—Priory there—Chapel of St. Michael—Devotee.

LETTER IX.

Ancient Ecclesiastical Architecture—Churches of St. Paul and St. Gervais—Hospital of St. Julien—Churches of Léry, Pavilly, and Yainville.

LETTER X.

Early Pointed Architecture—Cathedral—Episcopal Palace.

LETTER XI.

Pointed Ecclesiastical Architecture—Churches of St. Ouen, St. Maclou, St. Patrice, and St. Godard.

LETTER XII.

Palais de Justice—States, Exchequer, and Parliament of Normandy—Guild of the Conards—Joan of Arc—Fountain and Bas-Relief in the Place de la Pucelle—Tour de la Grosse Horloge—Public Fountains—Rivers Aubette and Robec—Hospitals—Mint.

LETTER XIII.

Monastic Institutions—Library—Manuscripts—Museum—Academy—Botanic Garden—Theatre—Ancient History—Eminent Men.

INDEX.


LIST OF PLATES.

Plate 01 Head-Dress of Women of the Pays de Caux.

Pages