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قراءة كتاب Northern Travel: Summer and Winter Pictures of Sweden, Denmark and Lapland

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Northern Travel: Summer and Winter Pictures of Sweden, Denmark and Lapland

Northern Travel: Summer and Winter Pictures of Sweden, Denmark and Lapland

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دار النشر: Project Gutenberg
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NORTHERN TRAVEL.





NORTHERN TRAVEL.



BAYARD TAYLOR.





The Vöring Foss.

The Vöring Foss.





NEW YORK : G. P. PUTNAM.

1859.





NORTHERN TRAVEL:



Summer and Winter Pictures



OF



SWEDEN, DENMARK AND LAPLAND,




BY


BAYARD TAYLOR.





NEW YORK :

G. P. PUTNAM, 115 NASSAU-STREET.

1859.





Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by

G. P. Putnam,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York.








PREFACE.

This book requires no further words of introduction than those with which I have prefaced former volumes—that my object in travel is neither scientific, statistical, nor politico-economical; but simply artistic, pictorial,—if possible, panoramic. I have attempted to draw, with a hand which, I hope, has acquired a little steadiness from long practice, the people and the scenery of Northern Europe, to colour my sketches with the tints of the originals, and to invest each one with its native and characteristic atmosphere. In order to do this, I have adopted, as in other countries, a simple rule: to live, as near as possible, the life of the people among whom I travel. The history of Sweden and Norway, their forms of Government, commerce, productive industry, political condition, geology, botany, and agriculture, can be found in other works, and I have only touched upon such subjects where it was necessary to give completeness to my pictures. I have endeavoured to give photographs, instead of diagrams, or tables of figures; and desire only that the untravelled reader, who is interested in the countries I visit, may find that he is able to see them by the aid of my eyes.

BAYARD TAYLOR.

London: November, 1857.




CONTENTS.

  Page
CHAPTER I.
A WINTER VOYAGE ON THE BALTIC
Embarking at Lübeck—Put into a Hut—The Company on Board—Night on the Baltic—Ystad—A Life Lost—Stopped by Ice—A Gale—The Swedish Coast—Arrival at Dalarö—Conscientious Custom-House Officer 13
   
CHAPTER II.
STOCKHOLM—PREPARATIONS FOR THE NORTH.
Departure in Sleds—A Meteor—Winter Scenery—Swedish Post- Stations
—View of Stockholm—Arrival—Stockholm Weather—Swedish Ignorance of the North—Funds—Equipment
21
   
CHAPTER III.
FIRST EXPERIENCES OF NORTHERN TRAVEL.
A Swedish Diligence—Aspect of the Country—Upsala—A Fellow- Passenger—The Northern Gods—Scenery—Churches—Peasant's Houses—Arrival at Gefle—Förbud Papers—Speaking Swedish
—Daylight at Gefle—A Cold Italian—Experience of Skjuts and Förbud—We reach Snow—Night Travel—An Arabic Landlord—A Midnight Chase—Quarters at Bro—The Second Day—We reach Sundsvall
27
   
CHAPTER IV.
A SLEIGH RIDE THROUGH NORRLAND.
Sundsvall and the Norrlanders—Purchase Sleighs—Start again— Driving on the Ice—Breakfast at Fjäl—Twilight Hymn—Angermannland —A Bleak Day—Scenery of Norrland—Postillions—Increase of Cold —Dark Travel—The Norrland People—The Country and its Products —Northern Thanks—Umeå—The Inn at Innertafle 39
   
CHAPTER V.
PROGRESS NORTHWARD—A STORM.
Christmas Temperature—First Experience of intense Cold—Phenomena thereof—Arctic Travel—Splendour of the Scenery—The Northern Nature—Gross Appetites—My Nose and the Mercury Frozen—Dreary Travel—Skellefteå and its Temple—A Winter Storm—The Landlady at Abyn—Ploughing out—Travelling in a Tempest—Reach Piteå. 50
   
CHAPTER VI.
JOURNEY FROM PITEÅ TO HAPARANDA.
Torment—Under the Aurora Borealis—A Dismal Night—Around the Bothnian Gulf—Forest Scenery—Månsbyn—The Suspicious Iron-Master —Brother Horton and the Cold—A Trial of Languages—Another Storm—New Year's Day—Entrance into Finland—The Finns—Haparanda 62
   
CHAPTER VII.
CROSSING THE ARCTIC CIRCLE.
Medical Treatment—The Kind Fredrika—Morals in the North—Our Quarters at Haparanda—Vain Questions—Start for Lapland—Arctic Daylight—Campbell's Torneå—A Finnish Inn—Colours of the Arctic Sky—Approach to Avasaxa—Crossing the Arctic Circle—An Afternoon Sunset—Reception at Juoxengi 72

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