sediments of this thick muddy water must be found prejudicial; for when the wort is emptied out of the cooling tubs into the working tun, or running from the coolers into the tun, a part of the sediment, from the foulness of the water, will follow the wort into the tun, consequently the yeast will be in a foul state and cannot be of that utility in baking, as though the brewing had been from pure clean water.

There is a great difficulty often happens in making beer come to a fermentation in the tun; this, I verily believe, is principally owing to the hardness of the water it is brewed with.

Some Observations on the Grinding of Malt.

Much depends on the grinding of Malt. Many people give directions to have their malt ground small, having an idea that the water will mix itself with, and have a more free access to it, than when ground in a more coarser state; but this idea is very erroneous. Malt should be only broke in the Mill, that is, if possible, every corn should be only bruised; malt ground in this manner will discharge the wort in a fine state throughout the whole brewing.

I have known many persons neglect giving orders for their malt till the day before they intend to brew; but malt should be ground four or five days, or a week would not be too long for brown malt, but great care must be taken to keep it in a dry place.

Malt, ground a reasonable time before it is used, loses the heat which it receives in grinding, and reduces it to a soft and mellow state; it will receive the water more freely, and a greater quantity of wort may be made than if it was brewed immediately after it was ground. The beer will also work much better in the tun and in less time become fit for use than if brewed as soon as it comes from the mill. This is proved by good housekeepers, who have their wheat ground two or three days before they use it; for by losing the heat it receives from the mill in grinding, the flour will be lighter, and receive the yeast and water more freely, than if used immediately from the mill.

Brewing is generally left to the care of servants, particularly in farm houses, who frequently have at the same time other business to perform, which too frequently causes the brewing to be neglected, particularly in its first stage. The mash in this first stage determines the whole of the brewing, for the malt ought to be well mixed up with the water, which will cause some time and labour; therefore the person employed in brewing should not, on that day, have any other business to perform, so as to engross any time or attention from the brewing, for any part neglected may mar the whole, which is too frequently the case.

Improvements in the Mash Tun.

Mash Tuns should have false bottoms, to take up as occasion may require;—they should be about two inches clear of the fixed bottom, with holes therein, about a sixth part of an inch in diameter. The false bottom answers two good purposes;

First,—You may be more expeditious in mashing, by having a free access to all parts of the mash tun, which, with a tap vase or some such like instrument being in the mash tun, will impede the stirring of the mash, therefore some part of the malt will not be mixed with the water.

Secondly,—The false bottom will drain the grains dryer than the tap vase, and in the fixed bottom there will be a sediment left, which, with one bottom only, would have passed through the tap vase, and a part of it accompanied the wort down into the tun. This will answer another good purpose; for the sediment not accompanying the wort into the copper, it will want less boiling, as it will break sooner and fine itself.

Fail not to boil your water six or eight minutes, then let it into the mash tun; if time will permit, do not put your malt in for mashing till the steam has escaped and you can see your face in the water; but if time will not admit of this, add about one gallon of cold water to eighteen gallons of hot. Whilst you put your malt into the tun, let a person stir it to prevent its clotting, then well mash it, and let the mash stand two hours at least. The second mash need not stand so long as the first. If convenient, always make use of hot water for your small beer, for by boiling the water a few minutes it will soften it, and will cause it to have a more free access to the malt, and the wort will require less boiling.

Boiling of the Worts.

Many brewers boil their worts from one to two hours; this is very much practised in private families;—a great part of the time the wort is in a simmering state the fire perhaps is not attended to, the person who has the care of the brewing is, as I said before, frequently employed in some other business, therefore this very material part is neglected: As soon as the wort is in the copper it should be made to boil as quick as possible, and a brisk fire should be kept under the copper to cause the wort to boil as fast as possible, for fast boiling will cause the wort to break and fine itself much sooner than it would if kept in a slow boiling state. Thirty or forty minutes will be sufficient to boil ale, and one hour if strong beer. This quick boiling will cause a saving of one gallon in twenty, at least, which must be acknowleged a great advantage, considering the present high price of malt.

I will presume to say there will be a saving in the wood or coal by boiling the wort, as is commonly said, a gallop, when it rises itself considerably above the copper.

The copper should have a curve made of wood, fixed round the brim, to prevent the wort from being spilt when boiling; or the copper should be so hung, with a sheet of lead fixed round the brim in a sloping position, that when the wort is hastily boiling, it would fall on the lead and immediately return into the copper, therefore it would prevent the wort from wasting or boiling over.

Cooling of the Worts.

As soon as the wort is out of the copper the next thing is to get the heat out as soon as possible, and to get it in a state for fermentation. Most private brewers, and many victuallers, separate their worts into tubs, bowls, pans, &c. for cooling; I have seen wort in no less than twelve or sixteen different utensils; worts being of a sticky quality, it must be acknowleged that a loss is sustained by having the wort in so many utensils, and also very inconvenient to pour the wort from the tubs and pans into the working tun; for in each of the before mentioned utensils will be a sediment, which too frequently follows the wort into the working tun.

Now to prevent the use of all these small utensils, a brew-house, though ever so small, will admit of two coolers being erected; for two coolers will take up nearly the same room in the brew-house as if only one were to be erected; for one cooler should be nearly underneath the other, so that the second cooler may receive the wort from the first. Care must be taken in fixing the coolers, so as to admit the working tun underneath the coolers, to receive the wort: but this need not be consulted where there is a conveniency to convey the worts and work them in the cellar.

The size of the coolers must so correspond with the quantity of malt brewed, that in warm weather the worts do not exceed two inches in depth in the coolers; for in summer brewing the heat cannot too soon escape from the worts; and this is the evil—not having a conveniency to separate the worts