night, I had the linen cloak which the Arabs wrap about their shoulders, to shelter them from the sun and rain.  A bucket of water, an article of indispensable necessity to a traveller in these arid regions, hung by my saddle.”

After a trip to the seaport of Hodeida, Niebuhr visited the old town of Zebid, built on the ruins of an older city, which is said to have once been the capital of all the low country.  Zebid is situated in a large and fertile valley, traversed during the rainy season by a considerable stream, by which a large tract of country is irrigated.  There are the remains of an aqueduct built by the Turks, but the modern town does not cover half the space of the ancient capital.  Zebid, however, is still distinguished for its academy, in which the youth of all that part of Yemen study such sciences as are now cultivated by the Mussulmans.

Niebuhr’s next trip was to the plantations of the famous Mocha coffee, whither the other members of the party had already gone, during his visit to Zebid.  After riding about twenty miles eastward from Beit el-Fakih, he reached the foot of the mountains.  He thus describes the region: “Neither asses nor mules can be used here.  The hills are to be climbed by steep and narrow paths; yet, in comparison with the parched plains of the Tehama, the scenery seemed to me charming, as it was covered with gardens and plantations of coffee-trees.

“Up to this time I had seen only one small basaltic hill; but here whole mountains were composed chiefly of those columns.  Such detached rocks formed grand objects in the landscape, especially where cascades of water were seen to rush from their summits.  The cascades, in such instances, had the appearance of being supported by rows of artificial pillars.  These basalts are of great utility to the inhabitants; the columns, which are easily separated, serve as steps where the ascent is most difficult, and as materials for walls to support the plantations of coffee-trees upon the steep declivities of the mountains.

“The tree which affords the coffee is well known in Europe; so that I need not here describe it particularly.  The coffee-trees were all in flower at Bulgosa, and exhaled an exquisitely agreeable perfume.  They are planted upon terraces, in the form of an amphitheatre.  Most of them are only watered by the rains that fall, but some, indeed, from large reservoirs upon the heights, in which spring-water is collected, in order to be sprinkled upon the terraces, where the trees grow so thick together that the rays of the sun can hardly enter among their branches.  We were told that those trees, thus artificially watered, yielded ripe fruit twice in the year; but the fruit becomes not fully ripe the second time, and the coffee of this crop is always inferior to that of the first.

“Stones being more common in this part of the country than in the Tehama, the houses—as well of the villages as those which are scattered solitarily over the hills—are built of this material.  Although not to be compared to the houses of Europe for commodiousness and elegance, yet they have a good appearance; especially such of them as stand upon the heights, with amphitheatres of beautiful gardens and trees around them.

“Even at this village of Bulgosa we were greatly above the level of the plain from which we had ascended; yet we had scarcely climbed half the ascent to Kusma, where the Emir of this district dwells, upon the loftiest peak of the range of mountains.  Enchanting landscapes there meet the eye on all sides.

“We passed the night at Bulgosa.  Several of the men of the village came to see us, and after they retired we had a visit from our hostess, with some young women accompanying her, who were all very desirous to see the Europeans.  They seemed less shy than the women in the cities; their faces were unveiled, and they talked freely with us.  As the air is fresher and cooler upon these hills, the women have a finer and fairer complexion than in the plain.  Our artist drew a portrait of a young girl who was going to draw water, and was dressed in a shirt of linen, checkered blue and white.  The top and middle of the shirt, as well as the lower part of the drawers, were embroidered with needlework of different colors.”

Having met with no molestation so far, Niebuhr determined to make a longer excursion into the southern interior of Yemen, among the mountains, to the important towns of Udden and Taas.  The preparations were easily made.  The travellers hired asses, the owners accompanying them on foot as guides and servants.  As a further disguise they assumed Arabic names, and their real character was so well concealed that even the guides supposed them to be Oriental Christians—not Europeans.  Entering the mountains by an unfrequented road, they found a barren region at first, but soon reached valleys where coffee was cultivated.  The inhabitants, on account of the cooler nights, sleep in linen bags, which they draw over the head, and thus keep themselves warm by their own breathing.

After reaching Udden, which Niebuhr found to be a town of only three hundred houses, the hill-country became more thickly settled.  Beside the roads, which had formerly been paved with stones, there were frequent tanks of water for the use of travellers, and, in exposed places, houses for their shelter in case of storms.  The next important place was Djobla, a place of some importance in the annals of Yemen, but with no antiquities, except some ruined mosques.  A further march of two days brought the party to the fortified city of Taas, but they did not venture within its walls, not having applied to the Emir for permission.  They returned to their quarters at Beit el-Fakih, by way of Haas, another large town at the base of the mountains, having made themselves acquainted with a large portion of the hill-country of Arabia Felix.

The journey to Mocha lasted three days, over a hot, barren plain, with no inhabitants except in the wadys or valleys, which are well watered during the rainy season.  Their arrival at Mocha was followed by a series of annoyances, first from the custom-house officials, and then from the Emir, who conceived a sudden prejudice against the travellers, so that they were in danger of being driven out of the city.  An English merchant, however, came to their assistance, a present of fifty ducats mollified the Emir, and at the end of a very disagreeable week they received permission to stay in the city.  From heat and privation they had all become ill, and in a short time one of the party died.

Niebuhr now requested permission to proceed to Sana, the capital of Yemen.  This the Emir refused, until he could send word to the Imâm; but, after a delay of a month, he allowed the party to go as far as Taas, which they reached in four days, and where they were well received.  The refreshing rains every evening purified the air, and all gradually recovered their health, except the botanist, who died before reaching Sana.

Taas stands at the foot of the fertile mountain of Sabber, upon which, the Arabs say, grow all varieties of plants and trees to be found in the world.  Nevertheless they did not allow the travellers to ascend or even approach it.  The city is surrounded with a wall, between sixteen and thirty feet high, and flanked with towers.  The patron saint of the place is a former king, Ismael