in a thin state, the brewer has not been able to get the heat out,—he has let the wort down into the working tun in a warm state, which has often brought on the fox, in a short time became sour, and rendered unfit for drinking.

The reader will observe that brewing in warm weather ought to be avoided as much as possible; for the coolers or tubs in warm weather being in a very dry state, and the worts being a long time cooling, that, at least, one gallon in forty will exhaust itself.

I shall point out one more improvement for cooling the worts more expeditiously: In many brew-houses there is no conveniency, when the worts come out of the copper, for the steam to escape out of the brew-house, but will continue for a time in a thick cloudy state, to the great detriment of the worts:—to remedy this, I would recommend flap shutters to be erected in as many parts of the brew-house as convenient, and the building will admit; the flap shutters will permit the steam to escape and very rapidly cool the worts. These shutters are as convenient in the winter, or when the weather is moderately cool, for they are so contrived that you may set them to what centre you please.

From these improvements the brewing will be more expeditiously performed, as the worts will, of course, from this conveniency, much sooner make way for the small beer, and totally prevent its being left in the copper all night, which is too often practised, to the injury of those who drink it, as it will not be fine, but remain in a thick wey colour, which is owing to its being in the copper too long, and not being kept in a boiling state; for if a copper has been in use twenty years it will at times shew symtoms of the verdigrease, which is a sufficient voucher that the wort cannot be too short a time in the copper, except when boiling.

Coolers will last many years without repairing; when, on the contrary, cooling tubs, &c. are frequently out of repair, and are as lumber, being of little or no use, except when used in brewing.

From the before mentioned improvements you will always finish your brewing before a late hour at night, which will enable you to pay the more attention to the worts in the tuns, &c.

Care should be taken to keep the brewing utensils as clean and as sweet as those used in a dairy; for without cleanliness it is impossible to have your beer in a good and wholesome state.

The copper should be cleaned after each brewing, as it will keep it bright; when it is used but seldom, and in wet or damp weather, the verdigrease will appear, but care should be taken to examine and clean it, previous to the warier's being put in for brewing.

It often happens, where the mash tun is not used for a working tun, the grains are left in the mash tun till the next morning, they will then be in a sour state; therefore the tun should be scalded before the next brewing. If in very warm weather, some quick lime, that is, lime not slacked, will be necessary, by adding some water to dissolve it to the same consistence as used for a white-wash; then with a mop or brush wet the tun with the lime like unto white-washing; after the lime has been on about a day it may be washed off.

Much care should be taken to keep the coolers and working tuns in a clean state, by frequently scalding; it will be necessary in warm weather to lime the coolers and working tuns;—this is an excellent remedy where the coolers and tuns are tinged with the fox, as also a preventative against that fulsome complaint. Experience will inform you that the use of lime is excellent in cleaning the utensils.

When you soak the coolers, &c. previous to brewing, add some lime to the water, as it will search and purge the joints of the coolers and tubs, by cleaning them from disagreeable smells.

Particular attention should be paid to the cooling of the worts, by having coolers as before mentioned. You may let your worts down into the tun as quick or as slow as you please and as the season may require; in very cold weather it should go down into the tun from the cooler by a good stream, as the worts require to go down into the tun in a warm state, particularly when there is but a small quantity brewed. In summer brewing your worts will require to go down into the tun in a cold state; however it will be much the best for them to be cold than too warm, therefore you should set the cock or plug to discharge the worts from the coolers into the tun but slow and dribbling; for by going down slowly it will prevent a hasty fermentation, and consequently will have the good effect to prevent your tun of beer from being foxed; therefore it must be allowed to be convenient and necessary to have coolers erected, as the worts will go down into the tun in almost one regular degree of heat.

On the contrary, when worts are cooled in tubs, pans, &c. they are emptied into the working tun in different degrees of heat, one after another; perhaps in some of these cooling tubs or pans the worts are two or three inches in depth; in others, six or seven inches; therefore the worts will be of different degrees of heat, and by having part of the worts let down into the tun much warmer than those already down, and which, perhaps, are in a fermentation, those worts will, of course, cause a fermentation too hastily,—will frequently cause the tun of beer to be foxed, and will always be in a heavy state, for the yeast will not separate itself from the beer; this renders the coolers more necessary and convenient.

Attending the Working Tun.

Attention should be paid to the beer when in the tun. It is a custom with many brewers to put their yeast for that brewing into the tun at one time: I will prove that practice to be very erroneous; for by adding the quantity of yeast you intend to use at one time, may cause a fermentation too hastily, and then you have no remedy. You should feed your tun with yeast by adding a little at a time, as occasion may require, for by so doing you will always be master of your tun of beer, by having it in what state of fermentation you please; as the quality of malt and waters differ, it will require more or less yeast to ferment it, and by adding the yeast at different times you will be enabled to form such a judgment as never to over-yeast your tun. Every time you add more yeast you should stir your beer with a bowl or bucket.

Cleansing.

It is a practice with many people to keep their beer in the tun from four to six days; by that time the yeast will fall to the bottom of the tun, and the beer will be in a flat, dead state; it will always be heady beer, being kept so long before it is cleansed; it will not be inclined to work in the casks, nor will it drink with a pleasant, lively taste. There is no coming at any exact time, with respect to hours, when your beer will be ready to cleanse, therefore this must be done by attention, in frequently examining when your beer is at its full head of working, or what is commonly said, rather inclined to go back; when it is in that state it should be cleansed immediately. This, I say, should be attended to, notwithstanding it should happen at twelve o'clock at night; for this is the evil, by neglecting the proper time to cleanse your beer it will not be able to fine itself in the casks, and then some device must be used to fine it, which is too often injurious to the beer.

A very necessary Caution.

It is a common practice, when casks are scalded or cleansed, to expose them to the sun and wind to dry, and there leave them till the time of cleansing, then they are placed in the cellar, &c. and the beer immediately cleansed into them; when the sun, in warm weather, has penetrated through the wood and become so warm that you cannot conveniently lay your hand upon them; this is often done unthinkingly, but the casks being thus heated by the sun causes the beer to work too hastily; after all the care and pains before taken, it here receives a material injury, by having, as may be said,