id="pgepubid00013">1

II.

NORTHWARDS TO BEISÂN, KADIS, ANTIPATRIS, ETC.

85

III.

SOUTHWARDS ON THE PHILISTINE PLAIN AND ITS SEA COAST

144

IV.

HEBRON TO BEERSHEBA, AND HEBRON TO JAFFA

184

V.

THE LAND OF BENJAMIN

199

VI.

SEBUSTIEH TO CAIFFA

214

VII.

ESDRAELON PLAIN AND ITS VICINITY

226

VIII.

BELÂD BESHÂRAH

253

IX.

UPPER GALILEE—FOREST SCENERY

264

X.

TEMPLE OF BAAL AND SEPULCHRE OF PHŒNICIA

283

XI.

JERUSALEM TO PETRA, AND RETURN BY THE DEAD SEA

289

XII.

ACROSS THE LEBANON—(THREE PARTS,)

347

XIII.

NORTH-WEST OF THE DEAD SEA

414

XIV.

SOBA

423

XV.

THE TWO BAIT SAHHOORS IDENTIFIED

428

XVI.

THE BAKOOSH COTTAGE

435

APPENDIX A

453

APPENDIX B

454

INDEX OF PLACES

461

I.  OVER THE JORDAN AND RETURN BY THE WEST.

We were a dozen Englishmen, including three clergymen, undertaking the above journey accompanied by the large train of servants, interpreters, and muleteers usually required for travelling in the East.  And it was on Wednesday, the 9th day of May 1855, that we started.  This was considered almost late in the season for such an enterprise.  The weather was hot, chiefly produced by a strong shirocco wind at the time; and, in crossing over the shoulder of the Mount of Olives, we found the country people beginning their harvest at Bethany.

We were of course escorted by a party of Arab guides, partly villagers of either Abu Dis or Selwan, (Siloam,) and partly of those Ghawârineh Arabs not deserving the appellation of Bedaween, who live around and about Jericho.  These people, of

both classes, form a partnership for convoy of travellers to the Jordan under arrangements made at the consulate.  Without them it would be impossible either to find the way to Jericho and the river, or to pass along the deserted road, for there are always out-lookers about the tops of the hills to give notice that you are without an escort, and you would consequently still find that travellers may “fall among thieves” between Jerusalem and Jericho; besides that, on descending to the plain of Jericho you would certainly become the prey of other Arabs of real tribes, ever passing about there—including most probably the ’Adwân, to whose hospitality, however, we were now about to commit ourselves.  To all this must be added, that no other Arabs dare undertake to convoy travellers upon that road; the Taámra to the south have long felt their exclusion from it to be a great grievance, as the gains derived from the employment of escorting Europeans are very alluring.

We had with us a deputed commissioner from the ’Adwân, namely, Shaikh Fendi, a brother of Shaikh ’Abdu’l ’Azeez.  He was delighted with the refreshment of eating a cucumber, when we rested by the wayside to eat oranges—the delicious produce of Jaffa.

Passing the Fountain of the Apostles, (so called,) we jogged along a plain road till we reached a booth for selling cups of coffee, at the divergence of the road Nebi Moosa, (the reputed sepulchre